You can sit on your board and wait for the perfect wave. Once you see it coming, you turn around and start paddling as hard as you can. When it reaches you, you can either put all your strength into catching the wave or you can give up and lose all the glory of riding it. Let’s say you take the wave. You are now on the wave and you are having the best time ever. You can feel the wind in your hair and you are rushed with a feeling a pure happiness. Now it doesn’t matter if you wipeout. You can get right back on your board and paddle out to catch another wave because now you know that you can do it…you caught the wave! So next time you are having a hard time, if you wipeout, it’s ok, just get right back on board because you might just have the ride of your life!
(I wrote this a while back...like a year or two ago)
